Trekking the Annapurnas: Overcoming altitude sickness in Manang

This time last week I was on top of the world. At 5,416m, I had just achieved what I dramatically – at times – thought that I would die trying to do. I sipped the world’s most expensive cup of tea, had a worry about about the changeable weather and insisted we leave as quickly… Continue reading Trekking the Annapurnas: Overcoming altitude sickness in Manang

Evidence of the Earthquake in Kathmandu

The first thing you’ll notice about Kathmandu is the dust. Walking around the city, everyone – tourists and locals alike – walks with masks stretched across their faces. Horses, motorbikes and cars trundle past, leaving gritty clouds in their wake. Spend any longer than an hour walking around, and you’ll begin to feel the dirt… Continue reading Evidence of the Earthquake in Kathmandu

The Unreality of the Taj Mahal

We came out of New Delhi airport just after midnight and it felt like the world had ended. Smog hung so low in the sky that even the taxi rank was hazy. It smelled like burning plastic. We were immediately descended upon by a flesh-hungry swarm of taxi drivers. After protesting to the driver who… Continue reading The Unreality of the Taj Mahal

Celebrating a Happy Holi in Odisha

Bhubaneswar, a city in the North Eastern state of Odisha, was our first stop in India. We’d never heard of it before – a lot of people we spoke to hadn’t either – but we’d been brought there by an impromptu invitation to a Hindu wedding. We arrived late the night before the event with… Continue reading Celebrating a Happy Holi in Odisha

Sugar, Spice and All Things Nice in Udaipur

Being British, Indian food holds a special place in my heart. In April last year, when I first got home after seven months in South America, my first wish (apart from a hot bath) was to be taken to the local curry house for a welcome home feast. That’s why, on planning my trip to… Continue reading Sugar, Spice and All Things Nice in Udaipur

Superficial Scenes in Canggu

I’m writing out of order. We’re skipping Thailand, Australia and a night in Singapore that I probably won’t blog about anyway because I spent the majority of it in a windowless room about the size of a toilet cubicle. We’re leapfrogging over my flirtation with snowboarding in France, and how I now come complete with… Continue reading Superficial Scenes in Canggu

A Cambodian Horror Story: Phnom Penh’s Killing Fields and S-21

It’s been a long time since I was last here. After my last post, I made it as far as Australia and then I went back home to England in deepest darkest December where I felt totally and utterly deserted by the sun. After Christmas, I went to France and I broke my wrist on… Continue reading A Cambodian Horror Story: Phnom Penh’s Killing Fields and S-21