Wonder in Nusa Penida

Holy places are everywhere in Bali. From a small roadside stone shrine tucked between a mini-mart and a laundry service to a meditation space clinging to the side of a sea-pummelled cliff, the spiritual is ever present. Whilst I’ve always tended to err on the side of observer rather than participant when it comes to… Continue reading Wonder in Nusa Penida

Elsewhere Again – Far East and Down Under

I couldn’t be happier to be typing in this familiar white space again. I’m back! I’ve gone elsewhere, and I’m over (t)here. The decision to come travelling again was an obvious one. As I sat on a plane back from Bogotá in April, at the end of my seventh month away from the UK, sadness… Continue reading Elsewhere Again – Far East and Down Under

Florianópolis to Rio: A Slice of Brazil

And so onto Brazil. I gave myself three weeks to head from the see-and-be-seen beach mecca of Florianópolis up to the inimitable city of Rio de Janeiro. In real terms, I saw a tiny fragment of what the country has to offer. In reality, my agenda was jam-packed… Is it cheating to use bullet points? I… Continue reading Florianópolis to Rio: A Slice of Brazil

Going along for the ride: Punta del Diablo

And so onto my second totally unexpected but completely unforgettable experience of Uruguay: Punta del Diablo and its wild-beach strewn national park. I’ve learned that it’s best viewed from atop a horse, at dusk, after swigging red wine from the bottle and ignoring all nagging fears for your own safety. Before I reached there, I… Continue reading Going along for the ride: Punta del Diablo

Watercolour sunsets in Colonia del Sacramento

I’d never really thought about going to Uruguay. I’d skipped past its chapter in my guidebook, and had never included it when listing the countries I wanted to visit on this trip. It’s a fairly common approach. Many people go around it, transitioning from Argentina into Brazil further inland at Iguazu falls: the thundering cascades… Continue reading Watercolour sunsets in Colonia del Sacramento

A realisation whilst chilling in Chile’s chilly Chiloé

If you want to test your definition of ‘bleak’, head to Puerto Montt in Southern Chile. Stand on the harbour where a pallid sea leaks into an insipid sky. Eat your tepid empanada as a three legged dog watches you through its one good eye. Search for words to describe the place, and realise that… Continue reading A realisation whilst chilling in Chile’s chilly Chiloé

Dipping a toe into Patagonia

Patagonia is not for the faint of heart. Interminable bus journeys, inhospitable terrain, bone-chilling temperatures and sky high prices mean that many travellers skip it all together. I was planning on going, I really was, but when I met traveller after traveller heading down there with sleeping bags and tents as basic necessities, four week… Continue reading Dipping a toe into Patagonia

Blurred photos and hazy memories – NYE in Valparaiso

High up on a hill, up steep staircases daubed with art, past hidden doorways and wooden-shuttered windows, around the corner and up again, you’ll find a large square lit with buttery lamp light and dotted with palm trees. Down from the square, over the shadows of the higgledy-piggledy streets beneath, the inky Pacific ocean stretches… Continue reading Blurred photos and hazy memories – NYE in Valparaiso

Next stop: Mars – Adventures in the Atacama

I left off my last post by describing my friend’s leap of (misplaced) faith through a geyser in the Bolivian desert. And I described the subsequent appearance of weird bony pointy thing (showing off with my technical terms here) protruding from his his left shoulder. We headed back into the jeep and I calmly told our… Continue reading Next stop: Mars – Adventures in the Atacama