A realisation whilst chilling in Chile’s chilly Chiloé

If you want to test your definition of ‘bleak’, head to Puerto Montt in Southern Chile. Stand on the harbour where a pallid sea leaks into an insipid sky. Eat your tepid empanada as a three legged dog watches you through its one good eye. Search for words to describe the place, and realise that… Continue reading A realisation whilst chilling in Chile’s chilly Chiloé

Dipping a toe into Patagonia

Patagonia is not for the faint of heart. Interminable bus journeys, inhospitable terrain, bone-chilling temperatures and sky high prices mean that many travellers skip it all together. I was planning on going, I really was, but when I met traveller after traveller heading down there with sleeping bags and tents as basic necessities, four week… Continue reading Dipping a toe into Patagonia

Blurred photos and hazy memories – NYE in Valparaiso

High up on a hill, up steep staircases daubed with art, past hidden doorways and wooden-shuttered windows, around the corner and up again, you’ll find a large square lit with buttery lamp light and dotted with palm trees. Down from the square, over the shadows of the higgledy-piggledy streets beneath, the inky Pacific ocean stretches… Continue reading Blurred photos and hazy memories – NYE in Valparaiso

Next stop: Mars – Adventures in the Atacama

I left off my last post by describing my friend’s leap of (misplaced) faith through a geyser in the Bolivian desert. And I described the subsequent appearance of weird bony pointy thing (showing off with my technical terms here) protruding from his his left shoulder. We headed back into the jeep and I calmly told our… Continue reading Next stop: Mars – Adventures in the Atacama

Dinosaurs in the Desert – Uyuni to Atacama

This blog and I have quite some catching up to do. Let’s blame my absence on Christmas and New Year, and start where I left off… After leaving La Paz, I travelled through Sucre onto Uyuni. I’d seen plenty of pictures of people being chased by giant plastic dinosaurs across vast expanses of white, and… Continue reading Dinosaurs in the Desert – Uyuni to Atacama

La Paz, Tentatively

La Paz appears to be a city where you either sink or swim. Bolivia’s capital is frenetic. The snarling, gnarled streets are crawling with people, with traffic, with ad-hoc market stalls selling sunglasses, underwear, toothpaste, fire extinguishers, toilet seats, soup, you name it. Juice is pressed, fish are gutted and tripe is sliced. Car horns… Continue reading La Paz, Tentatively

Dicing with Danger: Bolivia’s Death Road

Bolivia’s ‘Death Road’ was carved into the canyonside in the 1930s. For over 60 years, it was the only road that connected the capital of La Paz high up in the mountains to the town of Coroico in the jungle beneath. With 35 miles of narrow rocky path with very few rails to temper the sheer drops… Continue reading Dicing with Danger: Bolivia’s Death Road