The Unreality of the Taj Mahal

We came out of New Delhi airport just after midnight and it felt like the world had ended. Smog hung so low in the sky that even the taxi rank was hazy. It smelled like burning plastic. We were immediately descended upon by a flesh-hungry swarm of taxi drivers. After protesting to the driver who… Continue reading The Unreality of the Taj Mahal

Celebrating a Happy Holi in Odisha

Bhubaneswar, a city in the North Eastern state of Odisha, was our first stop in India. We’d never heard of it before – a lot of people we spoke to hadn’t either – but we’d been brought there by an impromptu invitation to a Hindu wedding. We arrived late the night before the event with… Continue reading Celebrating a Happy Holi in Odisha

Sugar, Spice and All Things Nice in Udaipur

Being British, Indian food holds a special place in my heart. In April last year, when I first got home after seven months in South America, my first wish (apart from a hot bath) was to be taken to the local curry house for a welcome home feast. That’s why, on planning my trip to… Continue reading Sugar, Spice and All Things Nice in Udaipur